Success! "Jack-O-Corona" printed out fine with the resurfaced "Pro" build-plate and modified hanger structure and exposure time--I think I like this water washable resin. After final curing (40 minute rotating under a 30 W 405 nm LED) it seems quite robust:
![[Image: CovidPumpkin-01.jpg]](http://www.paladinmicro.com/TestEquipment/ElegooMars/CovidPumpkin-01.jpg)
pre-post curing and any final finishing
![[Image: CovidPumpkin-02.jpg]](http://www.paladinmicro.com/TestEquipment/ElegooMars/CovidPumpkin-02.jpg)
Quick test, does anyone recognize the tool upon which jack is sitting? It is 60+ years old, i used it nearly every day in my very first job.
One "thing" though--it was stuck to the platen like "..it to a blanket"--I had to use a SHARP 2" wood chisel and a 12 oz, ball peen hammer to separate the platen and model.
In retracing my steps I found that between my decision to scuff up the plate, and my actually getting to do it (because of the "honey-do" project); the wife grabbed the random orbit sander from my tool cabinet and used it to sand a "trash day" road-kill 60's end-table she brought home last week--with a 60-grit!!! disc. I "knew" it had a 220 grit disc in it when i scuffed up the platen.
I any event I hit it again with an old 320 grit disc and all is well. The next print, a 60 x 120 x 5 mm test block adhered quite nicely and came off easily with the supplied scraper.
Ironically this screw-up serves to prove that it is the platen's surface finish that dictates it's adhesion factor; and that as Elegoo has found a slightly rough finish is what is needed.
![[Image: CovidPumpkin-01.jpg]](http://www.paladinmicro.com/TestEquipment/ElegooMars/CovidPumpkin-01.jpg)
pre-post curing and any final finishing
![[Image: CovidPumpkin-02.jpg]](http://www.paladinmicro.com/TestEquipment/ElegooMars/CovidPumpkin-02.jpg)
Quick test, does anyone recognize the tool upon which jack is sitting? It is 60+ years old, i used it nearly every day in my very first job.
One "thing" though--it was stuck to the platen like "..it to a blanket"--I had to use a SHARP 2" wood chisel and a 12 oz, ball peen hammer to separate the platen and model.
In retracing my steps I found that between my decision to scuff up the plate, and my actually getting to do it (because of the "honey-do" project); the wife grabbed the random orbit sander from my tool cabinet and used it to sand a "trash day" road-kill 60's end-table she brought home last week--with a 60-grit!!! disc. I "knew" it had a 220 grit disc in it when i scuffed up the platen.
I any event I hit it again with an old 320 grit disc and all is well. The next print, a 60 x 120 x 5 mm test block adhered quite nicely and came off easily with the supplied scraper.
Ironically this screw-up serves to prove that it is the platen's surface finish that dictates it's adhesion factor; and that as Elegoo has found a slightly rough finish is what is needed.